#Chemistry calculator online free#

TA contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up slowly, or even quickly in extreme cases. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Higher TA and/or borate levels cause you to need larger amounts of chemicals to change the pH. How much you will need for a given pH change depends on several other numbers, most importantly TA and borate. You can lower pH with muriatic acid or dry acid. Soda ash/washing soda will increase TA more than borax will.

You can raise pH with borax or soda ash/washing soda. This is particularly true for fresh plaster (particularly in the first month and continuing for perhaps a year) or when TA is high and the water is being aerated (because of a spa, waterfall, fountain, SWG, rain, kids splashing in the pool, etc). Many pools will drift up towards higher pH over time. Aeration will tend to cause the pH to rise. pH contributes to the CSI, which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling. pH below 7.0 can cause damage to metal parts, particularly pool heaters with copper heat exchange coils. pH below 7.2 tends to make eyes sting or burn. pH levels between 7.2 and 7.8 are suitable for swimming, while levels between 7.4 and 7.6 are ideal. Once you gain experience with your pool, less frequent monitoring may be appropriate depending on your pool's typical rate of pH change. PH indicates how acidic or basic the water is. If you are in a hurry you can lower FC with a chlorine neutralizer (sodium thiosulfate). It is most efficient to raise the FC level in the evening, since none will be lost to sunlight until the next morning. Lithium hypochlorite tends to be quite expensive. Trichlor and dichlor also add CYA and lower pH. Only use bleach without any additives, typically labeled unscented or 'original scent'. It is important that you do not allow FC to get too low, or you run the risk of getting algae and/or having an unsafe pool.įC is raised with bleach, liquid chlorine, liquid shock, trichlor tablets/pucks/sticks, dichlor powder, cal-hypo powder/capsules, or lithium hypochlorite. See The Pool Calculator's suggested FC levels section (towards the bottom) or the Chlorine / CYA Chart at TFP's Pool School for guidelines on the appropriate FC level to maintain based on your CYA level. The level of FC you need to maintain depends on your CYA level and how much your pool is used. FC is consumed by sunlight and by breaking down organic material in your pool. FC should be tested and chlorine added daily, unless you have an automatic feeder or SWG, in which case you can test it every couple of days.

#Chemistry calculator online free#

Free chlorine shows the level of disinfecting chlorine available to keep your pool sanitary.